Kugendran Perampalam is an exceptional restaurateur and is behind some of Toronto’s most celebrated dining spots, including Aamara, Savor, Koh Lipe — featured in the Michelin Guide — as well as Thairoomgrand and four Gabby’s franchise locations. In this TC feature, he shares his inspiring journey from humble beginnings as a dishwasher to becoming a leading force in the restaurant industry. Kugendran’s story is a powerful testament to resilience, ambition, and the drive to turn a passion for food into entrepreneurial success. 

*Both Thairoomgrand and Gabby’s will open new locations in Pickering, ON, in early 2025.

TamilCulture (TC): Tell us about your childhood and early memories of food at your home.

Kugendran Perampalam (KP): I was born in Punkudutivu in the mid-seventies and lived there until the displacement in 1989. I still remember the meen (fish) and iraal (shrimp) curry that Amma made as being very special. There were also different varieties of food that aren’t commonly seen these days, such as kurinja puttu and various sambals—some of which didn’t even have the coconut base we're so used to seeing today. The food was incredibly flavorful, as everything was bought fresh and cooked immediately.

TC: How did you start in the restaurant industry?

KP: I came to Canada as a refugee in 2002. Once here, I had very limited options. My studies had been interrupted many times due to constant displacement within Jaffna and Sri Lanka because of the civil war. I couldn’t take my Advanced Level exams, and I didn’t formally attend school beyond grade 12 due to the circumstances. My cousin, Siva, had a restaurant here, so I started by helping them in the kitchen. Whether it was washing dishes, chopping vegetables, or cleaning, I did everything that needed to be done. I also worked part-time as a dishwasher at the Toronto Club.

I developed my skills as quickly as possible, as I was eager to learn. Within a year, I quit the Toronto Club job and began working full-time at my cousin’s restaurant, where I was eventually promoted to cook. We worked seven days a week, which allowed me to experience every aspect of the business—whether managing customers at the front or working in the kitchen. These experiences helped me develop my managerial skills.

TC: How did that switch happen, to go from a restaurant worker to an entrepreneur?

KP: My cousin eventually purchased another restaurant and decided to move on. I proposed taking over their current one, agreeing to pay them a fixed monthly amount regardless of the restaurant's profitability, and took a leap of faith to become a restaurant entrepreneur. The restaurant was originally called Thai One On at York Mills. Today, I’ve converted this space into a Butter Chicken Roti franchise and opened Thairoomgrand adjacent to it.

TC recently hosted our 'Dating While Tamil' launch party at Kugendran's Aamara restaurant! Check it out here.

TC: What drove you to take that leap of faith into entrepreneurship?

KP: I’ve always had a deep yearning to achieve greatness. My Appa passed away when I was just 18-months-old, and poverty was a constant presence throughout my childhood. So, when I came here in my twenties, it felt like a fresh start—a chance to make something of my life. There was a fire in me to accomplish something greater than myself, and when this opportunity presented itself, I seized it.

TC: What is the secret to your success?

KP: Hard work, support from many people—including my business partners, staff, and my wife, Pamini, who has been through it all with me—have all been essential to my success.

Even after becoming the owner of multiple successful restaurants, I never felt that any job was beneath me. I never think, "Oh, I shouldn’t do that" or "Someone else should take care of it." I do whatever is needed at the moment because there’s always something to learn. Even today, if I need to step in to wash dishes or help cook, I’ll do it wholeheartedly. My wife is the same.

TC: Did you have a mentor who guided you through this entrepreneurial journey?

KP: I didn’t necessarily have a mentor, but I actively sought out the knowledge and experience I wanted to gain. I would visit other restaurants to observe how they conducted daily service, handled marketing, and set up their spaces. Even though they were my competitors, I studied what they did well that made them leaders in their own domains.

I also never shy away from taking risks. I have a strong sense of self and sometimes take chances on a location or choose a place with higher rent. I use these decisions as challenges, strategizing how to make it all work.

TC: You seem to have a strong focus on the fine dining restaurant business. Savor with Iron Chef Art – Prasopchok, Aamara with Chef Arulmani, Koh Lipe - featured on the Michelin Guide are examples of premier dining experiences in Toronto. What led you to this? 

KP: I don’t follow a set template. I’m always thinking about what I can do differently or exploring new avenues. I have sports bars as well as all-day breakfast restaurants. I understand this industry very well, so I’m not limited to any specific type of cuisine or restaurant.

TC: What are your thoughts on the food scene in Toronto?

KP: The current economic situation is challenging, and the last 12 months have been particularly tough. Every restaurant owner is struggling, myself included. Customer habits have changed; people who used to dine out frequently are now choosing to eat at home more often. However, with increased population density, we still have a solid customer base to serve. Many immigrants, once they settle in over a couple of years, eventually seek dining experiences outside the comfort of home.

Additionally, it's rare, based on my travels, to see someone from a specific ethnicity successfully running a restaurant that features a completely different cuisine. Toronto offers unique opportunities that I haven’t observed elsewhere. Tamils, in particular, have a special talent in this area. In fact, if you look at popular Italian restaurants in this city, Tamils are often the backbone of many well-known establishments.

TC: Have you considered opening a Tamil restaurant?

KP: It has been a dream of mine. I had plans, but then the COVID situation put a halt to them. Location is key for a Tamil restaurant; you need a good amount of square footage and parking availability. This is important because when Tamils go out to eat, we enjoy a communal dining experience with our immediate and extended families, and the space should accommodate that. I also believe that Tamil food has immense potential to be served in an elevated manner. It’s all in the presentation. It’s high time to bring this experience to the city. 

TC: Would you encourage your children to be part of this challenging industry?

KP: My goal is for my children to complete their formal education, attend good universities, and earn a degree first. After that, they are free to choose what they would like to do. I love learning, but due to the circumstances in the country while I was growing up, I wasn’t able to accomplish this myself. Given the opportunities available to them here, I want them to focus on their education before considering entering this business.

TC: Why do you keep such a low profile?

KP: That’s just who I am as a person. There are many people who accomplish much more and remain humble. I have more than 300 employees who believe in me and depend on me, so I need to ensure that I am consistent in fulfilling that obligation. Therefore, work is my primary focus. 

TC: What is next for you?

KP: I hope to launch my Tamil restaurant in the near future. Achieving that will give me a sense of completeness. Once I accomplish it, I will set new goals to strive for!

TC: What advice would you give someone who wants to enter the restaurant business?

KP: Dedication and hard work are essential. The restaurant industry demands that you put in extra hours; it’s not a structured 9-to-5 environment. It’s a grind. Once you consistently deliver good food and service for about two years, you will start to see success and new opportunities opening up for you. Of course, the usual advice applies, such as identifying the ideal location and targeting areas with high population density. If you are a chef, you can grow with your unique talent and offerings. However, for someone like me who wants to run and own restaurants, these other factors are crucial. 

TC Bits:

1. A favourite dish from each one of your restaurants 

Savor: Pad Thai

Aamara: Butter chicken and Chettinad chicken dosa

Le Lert: Truffle pasta

Koh Lipe: Pork belly & Pad See Ew

Thairoomgrand (new Pickering location opening 2025): Fried rice and basil chicken 

Gabby’s (Parkway Mall, Mississauga, Junction & Pickering (opening 2025)) - Chicken wings

2. What do you like to cook for yourself?

I rarely cook at home. My mother-in-law is an amazing cook. But if I had to cook it would be either a chicken or mutton curry.

3. The favorite food experience you've had in your travels?

I have traveled extensively but nothing beats Sri Lankan food. I love eating curries cooked in mud pots

4. Your favourite Tamil food?

Meen (fish) curry

5. How do you unwind?

I am mostly running between my restaurants, so I invite my friends over and have a good time with them. I also love driving so I take my family on road trips.

6. What would you say to your younger self?

Education is fundamental. The rest comes after. 

7. What does Tamil Culture mean to you?

I am a proud Tamil. The Tamil language is a lifeline; it teaches many important values, such as the significance of family, togetherness, and community. When you speak to a fellow Tamil in Tamil, it creates an inexplicable bond that is loving and warm. I believe there is a unique energy in the language that makes it truly special.